Monday, November 4, 2013

Expert's Editorial: Chefs Have Budding Leader in NacGnissecorp

Expert Commentator MIKE VILSHIRE
from Morro Bay, Calif.

-His is a commanding figure.  He gathered the chefs Monday morning before they were to leave Morro Bay to rally their spirits after two botched exhibitions that have the FF chefs staggering into Thanksgiving fresh off of scores of 90.9 and 93.2.

He did not ask to be a leader, and he does not want to be a leader.  But he is an orator.  "We can't hang ourselves up on numbers!" he piped, staunchly decrying increased iterations Sunday night of the statistic that the score in the final exhibition has fallen within 1.0 of the actual Feast Fest score for the past seven years, and that no Feast Fest has fallen as low as Sunday's Morro mark of 93.2 since 2003.  "Who says that trend will continue to an eighth year?" he asks.  "I don't!  If it happens, it's because we had our heads down and we let it come and happen!  The same reason we botched this one! Mental association! You all thought we'd choke, and you let us choke!  That can't be anybody's mindset! Focus always on the future, never dwell on the past!"

The uplifting speech Monday morning was delivered by the fiery newbie, Muskegon, Mich.-based Eric NacGnissecorp.  NacGnissecorp is level-headed, affable, and easily delighted--except when you mention his name.  "Don't slur it and make it sound like MacGnissecorp, people!  It's an 'N,' not an 'M'!"

The hierarchical structure of Feast Fest usually makes it tough for newbies to break through significantly in any way in their first year.  But here NacGnissecorp was Monday, making a rally-the-troops-esque speech usually reserved for the Mason Duo, Jumpin' Jimmy, or Lynn Avi.

"I knew coming into this that Feast Fest had their hierarchical setup, and I didn't care for one minute."  While he says he nothing but the utmost expect for his superior chefs, he says he feels that "all of us can influence this event in just a big way as those up at the Head Chefs' table."

And NacGnissecorp has shown that on the kitchen floor through all but two exhibitions this offseason, having been signed on Mar. 7 to a 1 year, $99,534 deal.  NacGnissecorp is the co-head chef at the only four-star European restaurant in Western Michigan, in nearby Grand Rapids.  And his journey from literal unknown to Feast Fest wunderkind has truly been enthralling to watch.  He wasn't even on the Feast Fest Scouting Department's list of 200 potential new chefs to sign (out of which only 6 were, keep in mind).  It was the first time since 2006 that the Scouting Department took a risk by signing a chef not on their 200-list.  (Appropriately, that chef was Lynn Avi, who also took Feast Fest by storm.)

Although his performance quieted, as did everybody's, in the two most recent exhibitions, with 18 NCA points at Edelyn and 14 in Morro, NacGnissecorp skyrocketed into the spotlight at the exhibition in June in Zurich, Switzerland, when he placed second with 56 points, just below Jan Stephan's 58.  Stephan won the MVC honor in Zurich, but he's gotten so many and NacGnissecorp's rise was so unexpected that really the trophy ought to have gone to NacGnissecorp--and it did, unofficially.  Stephan had the MVC trophy reading "Zurich Exhibition 2013" mailed to NacGnissecorp, calling him "the real reason" they had an exemplary 98.8 performance there.

Many believed he was just an anomaly.  But in Boston in July, at Joe Pasik's Back Bay eatery, he did it again, this time tying for first with Daniel Mettling and garnering 57 NCA points.  Neither Mettling nor NacGnissecorp got the MVC that time, however, as it is not all about points; rather, it went to an emotional Ronald Lays, who put 49 points on the leaderboard in his first appearance since Thanksgiving, having won a battle with skin cancer mere weeks earlier.

But NacGnissecorp's influence cannot be understated.  "He's fast on the floor, and he has a bright personality all throughout," Jim McAllister says.  "He's a great new addition to have."

And it perhaps makes sense why NacGnissecorp was the one to uplift the chefs after their lackluster performance Sunday.  "The vets like Jim and Joe and the Mason Duo all know the patterns and nuances of the event, and that gets them down because they think of all the other times that a bad score in the final exhibition has led to a final score on Thanksgiving.  They lack the capacity to think that it could be otherwise.  But I'm this new, naive, fresh face, so I get to say, 'To heck with the numbers! We can still get 99 anyway!'  And I'm certain we'll at the least come extremely close."

NacGnissecorp also says he just doesn't like a room full of long faces.  "I could tell everyone needed a pick-me-up, myself included," he admitted, "so I tried to be the one to give it."

And we'll see soon just how well he took to that task.

FF Wire Service

Sunday, November 3, 2013

Another Subpar WotW Performance: 93.2 at WotW

-Morro Bay
-In an incredible letdown for Feast Fest chefs, another subpar performance at Windows on the Water here in Morro Bay has manifested itself, as they will know have to go into Feast Fest with a goal of 99 or higher--having managed a measly 93.2 here at WotW.

It was a jump up from the 90.9 at Edelyn Cooking Arena in Punta Gorda, but, for the past seven years, the score at the chefs' final exhibition has fallen within 1.0 of their Feast Fest score for that year, meaning that, should that pattern hold up, the chefs would look at a score in the 94s on Thanksgiving--and they haven't let the score go that low since 2003.

Acting Head Chef Jim McAllister was numb.  "I just don't know what to say.  I really don't.  We came in here today with the right mindset, we knew what we had to do, but we squandered it--again."  WotW has typically been a house of horrors for the Feast Fest chefs; they usually average below 95 here.  In 2012, they managed 94.4, and in 2011 garnered 87.4.

But it was clear that McAllister wanted to focus on not what had gone wrong but what needed to be done to make up the difference.  He said that this exhibition had completely changed his outlook on FF 2013.  "I'll be happy to get back up into the 98s now," he said weakly, having previously extolled the chefs' best chances ever at reaching their golden goal of 100.  (The chefs had wipeout exhibitions in Boston and Tokyo in July and August, averaging scores of 98.6 and 99.4, respectively.  The 99.4 mark was their highest exhibitional score ever.)  "We don't know why we're slipping late in the offseason.  We're supposed to get better the closer we get to the Big Day.  I can't speak for what might be going on here."

The turkey score was a fair 95.1, so it wasn't dried birds that doomed this exhibition (though they were noted to be slightly parched).  Rather, vegetables seemed, mysteriously, to all garner low scores.  Peas had 91.0, green beans 88.3, and sweet potatoes 91.2.  Critics seemed to complain that they were stale and limp; one critic wrote that the green beans were "devoid of freshness and the cool snap needed to indicate said freshness."  All three of the aforementioned vegetables were provided by Feast Fest's official culinary provider for crops, L.A. Wild.  It wasn't the first time L.A. Wild had troubled peas, however.  In Feast Fest 2010, the peas had to be redone in the middle of the event.

Mashed potatoes was the top claimer, with a 99.2 score, but its phenomenal mark was not enough to save the overall score.

Lynn Avi had 36 points, the third most, in another somewhat tepid performance from the top chefs, though she was coming off of pregnancy.

The top claimer and subsequent MVC was D.A. Cook, with 52 points.  Cook received his first MVC since a 2007 exhibition.  (He has never received the honor during a full Feast Fest on Thanksgiving.)  Cook said he was "thrilled" to have received the MVC, but said that "we are all going to have to work hard to salvage this lower-than-hoped-for score on Thanksgiving."

Chefs will gather in Marina del Rey on Mon., Nov. 18, for a ten-day preparation session prior to Feast Fest on Thurs., Nov. 28.  "That will be extremely crucial," Lisa Choi (25 points) said.

Finishing off the leaderboard, Jim McAllister had 44 points, Jon Chu 35, Jarolde James 30, Patrick Kermell 22, Wiley Anders 22, Pete Willis 22, Ivan Peterman 20, and Lakeland Donavert 19.

FF Wire Service

Expert Analysis: Overcoming WOTW's House of Horrors In Final Exhibition Will Set a Vital Tone

Expert Commentator MIKE VILSHIRE
from Morro Bay, Calif.

-Don't believe the smiles on the faces of Feast Fest chefs in October 2012, when the 2013 exhibition schedule was released.

Their real train of thought? "Closing?! In MORRO?!?!?"

Morro Bay is a wonderful seaside village on the Central Coast of California, and Windows on the Water is a beautiful, award-winning culinary institution. Yet, it's hallowed halls have continually proved to be a house of horrors for Feast Fest chefs, who have scored below 95,0 there on five out of seven visits, including the disastrous trip in 2011, wherein a water main broke--twice--and led to the exhibition being delayed nearly 36 hours.

"I love coming to Morro Bay," Jan Stephan will tell you, "but WotW? We've never done well there."

It's puzzling. WotW has a large and well-equipped kitchen with a variety of innovative cooking technologies. While a bit more cramped than the expansive Edelyn Cooking Arena, it is the same size as the kitchen in Joe Pasik's bistro, Nø, and bigger than the tiny kitchen in Jim McAllister's Notes, both of which also regularly host Feast Fest exhibitions.

"We need to wipe out our negative mindset about WotW," Lynn Avi said Sunday. "We just have to come in and do our job." Avi seems to be the most ardent adherent to my theory: that a few bad times at Morro have led to the expectation that the chefs are ALWAYS in for a bad ride, which leads them to foul up and make mistakes. In 2010, 2011, and 2012, dry turkeys plagued the exhibitions and plummeted its score. This year, the moistness of the turkeys was "checked and re-checked" before the 5 p.m. start.

And a mechanical check confirmed that ALL cooking stations were in proper and working order, after complaints in 2008, 2009, and 2012 that they malfunctioned repeatedly.

So perhaps the concern surrounding WotW is just a bad case of culinary performance-based hypochondria?

One thing is certain: We're about to find out.

FF Wire Service

Cooking Bell Rings

-Morro Bay, Calif.
-We're cookin' in Morro.

The official cooking start bell rang at 5:12 p.m. Pacific Standard Time. The exhibition here at Windows on the Water, the final before the big dance on Thanksgiving Day, is expected to end around 9 p.m. With 61 of 67 chefs present, it is the highest-chef-attended exhibition of the year.

Lisa Choi got the style points going with some flame-y talents as she began to prepare her famous "pumpkins flambé."

89 turkey meals will be made, and, of those 89, only 16 will be consumed. The other 73 will be donated to local homeless shelters and soup kitchens.

FF Wire Service

Minutes Away in Morro Bay

-Morro Bay, Calif.
-With 61 chefs present, the final exhibition before Feast Fest on Nov. 28 is mere minutes away. The Windows on the Water exhibition here in Morro Bay is slated to have the Official Cooking Start Bell ring at 5:10 p.m. Pacific Standard Time, with about 150 in attendance.

The chefs will look to rebound after a subpar 90.9 finish at Edelyn Cooking Arena in Punta Gorda, Fla., on Monday.

"It's very, VERY important for us to crank out a solid performance in the final exhibition of the year so that we can go into Feast Fest feeling good about ourselves. It would've been disastrous if that had been our final exhibition." Edelyn usually is the final exhibition of the year before Thanksgiving, but, for 2013

FF Wire Service

Saturday, November 2, 2013

Melling Grabs Best European for 2nd Consecutive Year, Along With Ruscoso and A. Stephan

-New York
-It wasn't a total sweep like last year, but three Feast Fest chefs podiums in the top 5 for the NCA's 2013 "Best European" honor, and Alue-Charlote Ste-Germaine Melling won it all with 31% of the vote, down from 32% last year.

Tony Ruscoso had 4.4% of the vote at third place, and Andruw Stephan garnered 3.6% of the vote for fifth. Lynn Avi, who has placed in the top 5 for Best European for the past five years, was just denied a sixth straight podium, placing in sixth place with 3.4% of the vote.

"We may not have swept it like last year, but to have 3 of 5 feels amazing," Event Mgr. William Vanderbilt said.

Melling tweeted, "So proud to have won #NCABestEuropean yet AGAIN! Thanks to ALL who have supported me!"

November is the official month for the NCA to give out its annual awards. The NCA released the results of three awards yesterday, the first day of November, but no Feast Fest chefs podiumed in them.

Melling is also a contender for the NCA's "Best French" award, the results of which are scheduled to be released on Monday.

FF Wire Service

Arrivals Begin at Morro Bay

-Morro Bay, Calif.
-Feast Fest chefs have begun arriving in Morro Bay in preparation for tomorrow's final exhibition before Feast Fest, at Windows on the Water.

43 chefs arrived Saturday morning and afternoon through the nearby San Luis Obispo County Airport, being bussed to accommodations in Morro Bay. The tally of 43 adds on to 10 arrivals yesterday, for a total of 53 chefs out of FF's 67. More arrivals are expected later tonight and tomorrow morning. Feast Fest has many California-based chefs who have not yet arrived, apparently feeling safer at a late departure due to their proximity. One of these chefs was Co-Head Chef Jim McAllister. The Long Beach-based McAllister said he would be making the five-hour drive up early Sunday morning, not wanting to miss the Saturday night crowd at his restaurant. The exhibition Sunday is expected to begin around 5 p.m., with a small PrepFest scheduled for 3 p.m. McAllister said he would leave at 7 a.m., which should give him enough time to make it up to the Central Coast.

Another California based chef, Daniel Mettling, wasn't granting himself as much breathing room as McAllister. Mettling, based in Yosemite National Park, also about five hours away from Morro Bay, said he would drive through the night after ending evening service Saturday. Not that it's a tough drive--California State Route 41's eastern terminus is Yosemite, and its western terminus is in Morro Bay. "Just gotta get on 41 and stay there #FFWOTWExhibition," Mettling tweeted Saturday.

Of course, there are the matter of some chefs who won't make it at all. The Amsterdam-based Jawrodly Jurrjens said he wouldn't be able to make it to Morro Bay. Jurrjens said his mother was having heart surgery in nearby Utrecht on Monday morning. In addition, St. Louis-based Keith Wholehreh said he would be kept out of the WotW exhibition due to his wife giving birth on Thursday.

But the parent of another recent newborn WILL be making her way to WotW. After being unfairly lambasted by many for not showing up at Edelyn Cooking Arena in Punta Gorda, Fla. on Monday, having given birth to her third child only five days prior.

Avi said she had been medically cleared to travel to Morro Bay. She disembarked a chartered plane in San Luis Obispo around noon Saturday and was subsequently bussed to Morro Bay, about twenty miles to the northwest.

There is a wide variety of accommodations being used by chefs. Some are staying in beachside cottages in Morro Bay, others in more upscale hotels in nearby San Luis Obispo. One chef even booked a hotel in Paso Robles.

As many as eight chefs are staying at the large house of a Feast Fest benefactor, William Marbleton. Marbleton lives in Baywood-Los Osos, approximately five miles south of Morro Bay.

Feast Fest officials said tickets for Sunday's exhibition had been sold out as early as Friday night. 50 tickets were put on advance sale in June, and 136 others were put on sale Thursday.

FF Wire Service